About the only thing you need to know about the grip for now is that it should be fairly loose, until after strike. The only time you really need to grip the cue is to catch it after you have struck the white ball. Some basic rules to follow is that your hand should fully hold the cue with just enough pressure to prevent the cue from slipping away. Use the same pressure as if you were holding the hands of a 5-year old.
Light, but not too light. Firm, but not too firm. One of the things you can work on actively, is understanding how the grip changes during feathering. As your cue comes back and in a straight line , the grip will naturally need to open up.
Some players will tend to cock their wrist as the cue comes backwards so that they keep holding the cue. Instead, keep your wrist stationary, and instead open and close the fingers during the backswing. Have a look at Ronnie OSullivan for some good examples of this grip system. In regards to the butt size, and your fingers, perhaps a smaller butt diameter is needed.
The only way to know if its working is to try. Use videos to record your progress and to see if its helping. I am sorry if this irrelevant but i would like to ask you something. I bought a 9. Did i do a big mistake? Many snooker players use that size. It really affects my stroke. What are your suggestions to mitigate this issue?
I would suggest that you probably wear shoes that give you that additional height or place a thick carpet around the table. Where do you think the issue is for you? Quite a detailed blog and very informative as well. I was wondering if you could help me decide between 2 Snooker Cue sticks I have narrowed down to. The consideration is mainly because I played Snooker at clubs and parlours from — Now after your reading your blog, deciding on a budget and available options, I have narrowed it down to these 2 Cue sticks.
Both are 18 oz. Duellist comes with red n cream decals on the butt and the other is clean from any decals. I just checked both cues out. I think which you like. They both look similar in specs. They are both center-jointed and machine spliced. I would say either would be fine. Whichever you think will be best and that you will love to use and enjoy. You will have to be more precise before I can give you a useful answer.
Is it a pool or snooker cue? What is the total weight now? What is your level of play? Hope to hear back soon. Hi, Nice to see this post. Especially when i need to pot in a straight or nearly straight lines. I thought it will give me less interference in aiming. Maple is less sticky to bridge i should admit. Thank you for your review.
I appreciate you adding in your comments. Hi I play with a 23oz ash cue 9. Thanks for the comment Dave. One thing that happened to me in changing cue weights from a very light cue around You are absolutely right, that confidence is half the game. Since i have operations Vitrectomy and Catact extration on my left eye, which is the dominant eye, over recent years.
Have you tried the new Tricues? If so what do you think of them. By the way the spamcheck question correct answer is not Thanks for posting a comment. In fact, I had never heard of such a cue until you mentioned it.
After a quick chuckle, I put some thought into it, and I think it may actually be interesting to see how the cue would perform.
I would definitely be interested to do a review of the cue at some point. I have been playing with a predator but now play snooker only. I am 6ft5 and like a straight bridge arm as well as having broad shoulders. I currently have to bend my bridge arm a lot or run out of room for a swing at the back. My hands are big also. Should I get a cheap cue and play with the extension always and wrap neoprene around the butt?
Thanks for the comment. You could, as a test, play with a cheap snooker cue yes. The Predator pool cues would typically start around mm in tip size, so for that reason alone, getting a snooker cue around 10mm I recommend 9.
If you continued playing snooker with a pool cue, you would be really missing out on some of the nuances that you would only discover playing with a proper tip size. I also suggest staying away from layered tips initially. The limitations of a pressed tip Elkmaster or Blue Diamond actually help in the early stages. One possibility to consider is get a cue maker to build a snooker shaft for you that is inches longer than standard. Because of the height it has left very little room for a decent repair so you can understand why he had further problems.
Another standard shape though. Standard dome shape with a decent amount of height and takes the chalk well……. Plenty of height, well burnished and it takes the chalk nicely, what more could you want? Professional Tip Shape The tip looks well worn in and just right. A nice clean surface and the sides are very solid. The bit of chalk on the ferrule makes the shape look a bit misleading! Not too much depth, not too much dome and a nice hard side to keep the tip stable.
Again, it looks like a laminated tip but could be well burnished. With hardly any depth left and a reasonable dome I usually find these tips are just about at their best before you sadly have to change them.
I guess we all like something different. This looks like a very slight trumpet tip where the ferrule size is slight smaller than the base of the dome. Barry Hawkins is a fan of this type of tip also but is a little more pronounced. A nice size tip this with no unusual features.
This looks like more of a conventional tip, very close to the standard flat tip. Looking at the bottom edge of this tip of this tip, Ronnie uses the domed tip. Well Ronnie seems to have a different size cue tip and also the shape is now a little more standard and domed. The height is certainly a lot less and there is a slight cone where the tip is larger than the ferrule but nothing to write home about.
Again, this is more of a conventional flat tip. A reasonable amount of depth with very little dome on the surface. Sits nice on this cushion. Well this is a nice big tip that is very domed.
I think he did ok with it though! Not the best picture but the tip is certainly domed without any real depth underneath the surface area. I like to see a little depth before the surface shape. Nice depth and average shape, tip looks a little hard, I wonder if it is? Looks that way to me! The tip certainly looks a lot deeper and domed.